The Bedford cord is a weave that is characterized by cord lines that run warp-wise in the cloth. It is sometimes called a warp piqué.
The weave between the cords is usually plain weave. However, the weave of the cord can be plain or twill.
There are several filling or weft floats on the back of the fabric causing the yarns to bunch and form the cords in the cloth. A stuffer yarn could be used when the cord effect needs to be more pronounced.
The crepe weave is also a derivative of the plain weave. The most common crepes are CAM weaves and are typically made with high-twist warp and filling yarns. The twist may range from a 5.0 twist multiple or higher. The fabric may also use alternating S and Z twist yarn to accentuate the crepe effect.
After weaving, during finishing, the fabric relaxes and the high twist makes the fabric surface become pebbly in an appearance that is called crepe.
It should be noted that this fabric could be difficult to weave on air-jet looms due to the tendency of the high twist-filling yarns to kink.
The piqué is a weave characterized by cords running widthwise or in the filling direction.
The fabric requires at least three harnesses and repeats over the needed number of ends to create the desired width of the wale.
A Bedford cord weave has cords in the warp direction and a piqué weave has cords in the weft direction.
TERMS TO KNOW (click to flip)
A fabric that has cords or ribs formed by the weave running in the warp direction. Sometimes called a warp…view in glossary
A weave that produces a rough textured fabric designed to have warp and filling intersections and floats in a random…view in glossary
A fabric that has cords or ribs formed by the weave running in the filling direction. Contains both knitted and…view in glossary