Down to the Roots: Cotton Species
In the United States and across the globe, there are two main species of cotton:
- Gossypium hirsutum, known as Upland cotton
- Gossypium barbadense, known as Pima cotton
Upland cotton makes up 90% of the world’s cotton1 and 97% of what’s grown in the U.S.2 The primary difference between these two species is fiber length: Pima cotton has longer fibers than Upland cotton and is therefore known as “extra long staple” (ELS) cotton.
Fiber length has impacts across the production process that determine the best use cases for cotton varieties. While neither cotton variety is inherently ‘better,’ Upland and Pima cotton each offer unique advantages tailored to specific end uses.
Due to its long fiber length, Pima cotton is well suited for premium goods. Longer fibers create thinner yarn that can be spun into textiles with extra drape, hand, and shine. The processing steps for Pima-based goods are typically more expensive, resulting in a higher price point.
Because it has a shorter fiber and is more common, Upland cotton is used for a wide range of products, from apparel and home goods to nonwovens and denim. Shorter fibers create thicker yarns that yield greater absorbency, durability, and versatility in end products. Additionally, processing Upland cotton tends to be more cost-effective, making it a realistic choice for a variety of price points.
Upland Cotton
- Comes from the cotton species Gossypium hirsutum
- Fiber length of 1 – 1 ¼ inches
- Makes up 97% of the cotton grown in the U.S.2
- Used for a wide range of products
- Cost-effective processing
Pima Cotton
- Comes from the cotton species Gossypium barbadense
- Fiber length of 1 3/8 inches or more
- Makes up 3% of the cotton grown in the U.S.2
- Typically reserved for premium products
- More expensive processing
Cotton Varieties FAQs
No. Organic refers to farming methods rather than the species planted or quality of cotton produced. Any species of cotton can be grown organically. Learn more on our Organic Cotton page.
Egyptian cotton is just that — cotton from Egypt. Egyptian cotton is not always Pima: Gossypium hirsutum and Gossypium barbadense species are grown in Egypt, so it can be either Upland or Pima cotton. This means Egyptian cotton itself isn’t necessarily optimized for any specific end use. Just like cotton grown anywhere in the world, the main factor impacting processing and end use is fiber length, which is primarily determined by the species of cotton grown.
Turkish cotton is simply cotton grown from Turkey. It can come from Upland or Pima cotton varieties.
The term “Sea Island cotton” was developed in the 1790s to market Upland cotton grown in the United States lowcountry. Sea Island cotton is uncommon today, as most cotton in the U.S. is grown in the 17 states that make up the Cotton Belt.
Tree cotton comes from a species called Gossypium arboreum and is known for its very short staple length. It’s only grown in South Asia and is therefore extremely rare as a sourcing option.
Levant cotton, or Gossypium herbaceum, is native to sub-Saharan Africa and Arabia. It grows as a wild shrub and is not grown commercially. Levant cotton has historical significance but is not typically an option for commercial product sourcing.
Cotton naturally has a color ranging from buttery yellow to white. Cotton can be selectively bred to produce green or brown fibers, known as colored cotton, but this is uncommon. In the U.S., variations in cotton color are classed by the USDA after harvest. Cotton’s color affects its dyeability, as whiter cotton requires less bleaching prior to dyeing.
Mercerization is a treatment that can be applied to any type of cotton. It chemically changes cotton fibers so they are stronger, shinier, and easier to dye. This process can add product value as well as increase production cost. Mercerization is done at the yarn or fabric level.
Carding and combing are both steps in the fiber preparation process. Carding straightens, parallels, and cleans cotton fiber. While all cotton is carded, combing is an extra step that can be added to increase yarn count.
Combing removes short fibers from the yarn-making process. A finer yarn can be made from combed cotton which tends to result in an end product with extra sheen, drape, and improved hand. Combed yarns and the resulting products tend to be softer and more durable.
Sourcing Cotton in the U.S.
Whether you’re sourcing Pima or Upland cotton, finding the right supplier is essential for achieving your ideal final product. Our U.S. Suppliers List is a free resource to help you connect with cotton-focused manufactures and service providers across the United States — from large-scale mills to small, independent specialists.
Learn MorePage References
Yara North America. (n.d.). World Cotton Production. Retrieved February 25, 2025 from https://www.yara.us/crop-nutrition/cotton/world-cotton-production/
United States Department of Agriculture Economic Research Service. (2025, January 8). Cotton and Wool – Cotton Sector at a Glance. https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/crops/cotton-and-wool/cotton-sector-at-a-glance