Organic Cotton
Organic, conventional, and genetically modified cotton may be more similar than you think. Learn the facts and opportunities for all cotton production methods.
Organic, Conventional, and Genetically Modified Cotton
Today, cotton is often considered in two classifications: organic or conventional. But textile industry professionals should understand types of cotton as they relate to the supply chain: organic, conventional, and genetically modified.
These three classifications are all about how cotton is grown and the type of seed it grows from, rather than the quality, safety, or end use potential of the cotton produced. Cotton’s identification as organic, conventional, or genetically modified is not always an indication of sustainability. Cotton growers of all three types often use regenerative agriculture practices, which capture carbon while enhancing soil health, biodiversity, water, and air quality — all while keeping farms productive.1
Regenerative AgricultureWhat is organic cotton?
Organic cotton refers to the production methods and techniques that help grow and protect the crop, not the quality of what is harvested. Organically grown cotton must be planted with seeds that are not genetically modified and use mostly non-synthetic inputs, with some exceptions.2 Less than 1% of the world’s cotton is grown organically.3
Is organic cotton sustainable?
The U.S. is one of the only countries regulating organic cotton production. U.S.-grown organic cotton should be produced according to USDA organic standards and is subject to third-party verification to be certified by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA).4 It requires operations to use practices that cycle resources, conserve biodiversity and preserve ecological balance.
However, organic cotton does have tradeoffs. It may cost more in the marketplace because it produces a lower yield, often due to difficulties caused by insect and weed pressures. This is especially true during the three-year period when a field is transitioned from conventional farming methods to organic, as it can’t be labelled organic until the land has been free of prohibited substances for three years.5 Because it isn’t considered organic cotton yet, it may not reach the higher price point in the marketplace, but growers will likely experience a lower yield during the transition time and may lose significant profit.
While organic cotton production may reduce the reliance on synthetic chemicals and promote biodiversity, these sustainable practices may require more land and result in higher costs,6 but they reflect a growing commitment to environmental stewardship. Initiatives like the USDA-funded project led by Texas A&M AgriLife Research aim to improve yields, productivity, and sustainability in organic cotton farming.7 This research presents a promising opportunity for brands and manufacturers committed to sustainable practices.
What is conventional cotton?
Conventional cotton may be grown with both synthetic and natural inputs, but does not use seeds with genetic modifications.
Despite the name “conventional,” most farmers do not grow this way, instead opting to grow genetically modified cotton.8 While genetically modified seeds are more expensive than conventional seeds, they are designed to require less fertilizer and pesticide input. This helps the grower save money, make up the extra price of the seeds, and reduce the environmental impact of their farm. On the other hand, conventional cotton has positive associations for consumers who value products that can be labeled as non-GMO.
What is GM cotton?
GMO means “genetically modified organism.” Genetically modified, or “GM” cotton refers to a seed variety that has been bioengineered for specific traits. The seeds are modified with genetic additions, changes or deletions9 often intended to strengthen resistance to certain insects or pests, or to offer higher tolerance of certain herbicides commonly used to kill weeds.10
These benefits make GM cotton popular. In the United States, 95% of cotton grown was herbicide tolerant in 2019, and in 2020, 88% of cotton grown was Bt cotton, an insect-resistant cotton variety.8 Many genetically modified cotton varieties will include both herbicide and insect tolerance, so they are not exclusive of each other. Because GM cotton is designed to withstand exposure to certain pests and inputs, there is less financial and yield risk in its production.
Studies show Bt cotton contributes to higher yields while using less resources than non-GM varieties.11 This means farmers apply less pesticides and fertilizers, leading to less nutrient runoff when it rains. They make fewer trips across fields and thus use less fuel, saving money and emissions. Ultimately, farmers growing cotton with the Bt modification get the most out of their land by growing more cotton per acre.6
Comparing Conventional, Genetically Modified and Organic Cotton
All types of cotton are more alike than different. When sourcing cotton, you can expect USDA certified organic cotton to use natural methods for nutrients and crop protection and not depend on synthetic inputs the way conventionally grown cotton does. But after harvesting, organic, conventional, and genetically modified cotton are indistinguishable.
Organic Cotton
- Not grown from GM seeds
- Can only use natural inputs, with few exceptions2
- Produces lower yields11
- Does not rely on synthetic pest and disease control
- Makes up 1% of the world’s cotton3
- Often uses regenerative agriculture practices
Conventional Cotton
- Not grown from GM seeds
- Can use synthetic and natural inputs
- May rely on synthetic pest and disease control
- Often uses regenerative agriculture practices
Genetically Modified Cotton
- Grown from GM seeds
- Can use synthetic and natural inputs
- Produces higher yields11
- May rely on synthetic pest and disease control
- Makes up the majority of cotton grown in the U.S.8
- Often uses regenerative agriculture practices
Despite production differences, the result is identical: organic, conventional, and GM cotton all deliver the same look, feel, and performance consumers love about cotton.
Organic Cotton FAQs
Answers to the top questions surrounding organic cotton, conventional cotton, and genetically modified cotton.
Organically grown cotton does not use genetically modified (GM) seeds and rarely uses synthetic inputs, though there are some exceptions.2 Conventional cotton does not use GM seeds and can be grown with both synthetic and natural inputs. Genetically modified cotton is the most common type in the U.S.8 It’s grown from GM seeds and can be grown with both synthetic and natural inputs.
Organic cotton production applies practices that are meant to protect biodiversity, soil, and water health,7 but those practices are not necessarily unique to organic cotton. Responsible cotton production methods can reduce environmental impacts for all cotton production.
Consumers often perceive organic certification as a symbol of environmental friendliness, which is a benefit to brands in markets with higher price points.
A “genetically modified organism” (GMO) is any plant variety genetically modified through insertion of one or more genes derived from other organisms, or through laboratory modification or deletion of one of the plant’s own genes.
GM cotton is grown from seeds whose DNA has been altered so the plant expresses desirable traits. Bt cotton, for example, gets its quality of resisting certain insects from the modification of a gene derived from naturally occurring soil bacteria. This can add resistance to certain insect pests or tolerance of certain herbicides used to kill weeds, which leads to higher yield and stronger, more reliable plants.9 GMOs can combat environmental threats, ultimately creating greater yields in a smaller footprint, alongside benefits like requiring fewer resources.11
Bt cotton is an example of GM cotton created for insect tolerance. It uses genes from Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt, a common soil bacterium) that produce toxins to kill the larvae of certain insect pests (certain lepidopteran or coleopteran species) when they feed on cotton.
Not necessarily. This is dependent on weather and climate in the growing region. Using less water requires specific technology and management, but the healthy soil (which holds more water) and crop rotation often associated with organic cotton can help reduce water needs. This can be offset, however, by the larger land requirement of growing organically.11
In the U.S., 64% of cotton acreage needs no irrigation — rainfall is sufficient. In the other areas, irrigation is typically reserved for dry spells.12 The U.S. cotton industry encourages all cotton farmers — whether growing conventionally or organically — to use regenerative practices such as crop rotation and conservation tillage which can keep soil healthy and retain water. In addition, some GM seeds are drought tolerant.
Yes.2 Natural methods must be used first, and proven ineffective, before organic cotton may use approved synthetic pesticides.
You wouldn’t know the type of cotton your t-shirt was made from just by the look and feel. The primary differences between types of cotton are the growing practices, the origin of the seeds, and the types of inputs used to grow and protect the crops — none of which impact the final product’s look, feel, or performance. Fiber length has the biggest impact on cotton’s end use. Learn more on our Cotton Varieties page.
Should you source organic, conventional, or genetically modified cotton?
The bottom line is all types of cotton are indistinguishable when it comes to use. Cotton is a highly versatile natural fiber and produces a soft material, no matter how it’s grown or the type of seed it comes from. And the environmental benefits often sought from organic cotton are being expanded into other growing methods: across the U.S. cotton is being grown through regenerative agriculture. Cotton offers sustainability benefits throughout its lifecycle, making any cotton a comfortable, natural choice for all.
Looking for suppliers in the U.S.? Check out our list.
U.S. Cotton SuppliersPage References
Field to Market. (n.d.) Defining Sustainable and Regenerative Agriculture. Retrieved October 15, 2024 from https://fieldtomarket.org/defining-sustainability/
Electronic Code of Federal Regulations. (2020). Soil fertility and crop nutrient management practice standard. National Organic Program, 205.105. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-7/subtitle-B/chapter-I/subchapter-M/part-205/subpart-C/section-205.203
Textile Exchange. (2019). Organic Cotton Market Report 2019. https://textileexchange.org/app/uploads/2024/02/Textile-Exchange_Organic-Cotton-Market-Report_2019_3.pdf
United States Department of Agriculture. Electronic Code of Federal Regulations (eCFR). (2020). Inspection and testing of agricultural products to be sold or labeled as “100 percent organic”, “organic”, or “made with organic (specified ingredients or food groups)”. National Organic Program, 205.670. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-7/subtitle-B/chapter-I/subchapter-M/part-205/subpart-G/subject-group-ECFR91a50748a9959c1/section-205.670
United States Department of Agriculture. Electronic Code of Federal Regulations (eCFR). (2020). Land requirements. National Organic Program, 205.202. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-7/subtitle-B/chapter-I/subchapter-M/part-205/subpart-C/section-205.202
Tuomisto, H. L., Hodge, I. D., Riordan, P., & Macdonald, D. W. (2012). Does organic farming reduce environmental impacts? – A meta-analysis of European research. Journal of Environmental Management, 112, 309 – 320. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jenvman.2012.08.018
United States Department of Agriculture. (2024). A Drive to Make U.S. A Leader in Organic Cotton. https://www.nifa.usda.gov/about-nifa/blogs/drive-make-us-leader-organic-cotton
Dodson, L. (2020, July 20). Over 90 percent of US corn, cotton and soybean produced from GMO crops, latest USDA data show. Genetic Literacy Project. https://geneticliteracyproject.org/2020/07/21/over-90-percent-of-us-corn-cotton-and-soybean-produced-from-gmo-crops-latest-usda-data-show/
Qandeel-E-Arsh, N., Azhar, M. T., Atif, R. M., Israr, M., Khan, A. I., Khalid, S., & Rana, I. A. (2021). A discussion on cotton transformation during the last decade (2010–2021); an update on present trends and future prospects. Journal of Cotton Research, 4(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s42397-021-00104-5
Allen, C. (2019, January 10). BASF advances five new cottonseed varieties, including dicamba-tolerant varieties for enhanced weed control. BASF. https://www.basf.com/us/en/media/news-releases/2019/01/P-US-19-002
Finger, R., Benni, N. E., Kaphengst, T., Evans, C., Herbert, S., Lehmann, B., Morse, S., & Stupak, N. (2011). A meta analysis on Farm-Level costs and benefits of GM crops. Sustainability, 3(5), 743–762. https://doi.org/10.3390/su3050743
United States Department of Agriculture National Agricultural Statistics Service. (2019). 2018 Irrigation and Water Management Survey, 3(1). https://www.nass.usda.gov/Publications/AgCensus/2017/Online_Resources/Farm_and_Ranch_Irrigation_Survey/fris.pdf